More is More...
When do you know you have too many dogs? When you can not commit daily to doing something with each one, is my answer. I have More than some people, and Fewer (not less as is common poor usage brought on by "Less Calories" for one) than others. My goal with each dog is to find what makes them tick and go from there. They are all different, even those of the same breed-I try to never compare.
Right now I am working with a couple younguns, who are about as different as the sun and moon. Neither is "better", but what makes them tick and their natural instincts that I see, affect how I am approaching their training. With many pups, they melt into you when you call them, or touch them. With some (especially a BC pup), as they begin to lose teeth, you might see their natural inclination is to be just out of reach, or heightened body sensitivity. They are just outside of the "bubble" or flight zone, if thinking in terms of stock. They aren't trying to be "stubborn or belligerent" (anthropomorphic human terms) , but are more likely feeling "pressure" trying to approach. If we are still and facing a pup like this, we might as well be asking them to run into a wall. So, how do you work with that???
Some pups are born natural retrievers. I have a few of those. Most, are not so natural and need MOre pennies in the bank, for the behavior chain of running to, picking up an item, bringing it back and then being close enough to touch them and then either dropping or giving the item to us. All parts of the chain need More reinforced.
Some pups have superior chase instincts, but little to no pack instinct...so keep away or getting the toy when it is "dead", we lose their brains for bit. Teething pups often have sore mouths, but this is the stage where some people seem to focus on teaching a retrieve, instead of just letting them be. Magically, at 6-7 months some pups just start to naturally retrieve...hmnn teeth are all in around then too.
I do love to work on a retrieve for the teamwork aspect of the game, it is also just another recall-so builds your bond. Recalls are probably the most important thing that you can teach a dog. Are all of my recalls 100% fail-safe, in all situations? probably not, but with each of my dogs, I work on building the rapport of a fast and happy recall, one-on-one. A recall can save your dog's life!
Fetching sheep, is literally a retrieve and recall with critters. Of course, no teeth invited to try to speed up or try to pick up anything. Making things move, is what herding and many other breeds of dogs love to do. Some dogs like to make things stop moving, or some like to grab and kill things that move. All of these instincts, once you figure out their brain-are easily incorporated into teaching not only your recall, but a motivational retrieve.
Movement is More to most dogs-your motion, a toy's motion , +Tug, things that move, food being tossed in opposite direction for the 2 Cookie game and calling them as you take off , to create chase. All of this is More to most dogs. These are simple things to use, we all have them, no secret training method.
BUT...where to start? At the end of course. I backchain my recalls and retrieve, beginning at the end. For your more formal obedience fronts, different thing. But, with a handful of hidden treats, held behind your back (not visible or you quickly become that sucky trainer who has to lure or say "cookie" to get your dog's focus) I start in a quiet environment and just Yes/Click/Praise & Treat a pup for choosing to select me over the environment we are working in. 5-10 rewards of that, just milling about. There is no cue or "come here" or their name-we want them to use their brains to select us...it is SO MUCH MORE that way.
After I know they are acknowledging me and have done a few shaping sessions of this in at least 5 different low level environments-I up criteria a bit. I will still click/yes & treat checking in, but also on a few, start to click for not just a flick of "hey I know you are there" for a pup seeking out my eyes. That is when you have their brains, when you have that connection and eye contact. And...this is where I am with one pup, while the younger two zoom past him in focus.
How do you quantify biddability in a dog? For me it is when more is more and they are happy to do more...an open book! Asking for more, instead of a fight to get more eye contact, filter out environment, etc.
So, we start and keep working on more pennies in the bank. Tonight, in the dark under floodlight...just worked on I can be more, for this pup. He is sweet as all get out, but easily goes into a fugue state where movement is more, or the other dogs. More work to do! He does love toys, so with him will use that & retrieve games, to be more for him. More concrete skills also seem to make more sense to him, so dog is in the details. In the spring, hopefully we will be ready for more stock work, and have more time for it. Work is a necessary evil! ;)
Right now I am working with a couple younguns, who are about as different as the sun and moon. Neither is "better", but what makes them tick and their natural instincts that I see, affect how I am approaching their training. With many pups, they melt into you when you call them, or touch them. With some (especially a BC pup), as they begin to lose teeth, you might see their natural inclination is to be just out of reach, or heightened body sensitivity. They are just outside of the "bubble" or flight zone, if thinking in terms of stock. They aren't trying to be "stubborn or belligerent" (anthropomorphic human terms) , but are more likely feeling "pressure" trying to approach. If we are still and facing a pup like this, we might as well be asking them to run into a wall. So, how do you work with that???
Some pups are born natural retrievers. I have a few of those. Most, are not so natural and need MOre pennies in the bank, for the behavior chain of running to, picking up an item, bringing it back and then being close enough to touch them and then either dropping or giving the item to us. All parts of the chain need More reinforced.
Some pups have superior chase instincts, but little to no pack instinct...so keep away or getting the toy when it is "dead", we lose their brains for bit. Teething pups often have sore mouths, but this is the stage where some people seem to focus on teaching a retrieve, instead of just letting them be. Magically, at 6-7 months some pups just start to naturally retrieve...hmnn teeth are all in around then too.
I do love to work on a retrieve for the teamwork aspect of the game, it is also just another recall-so builds your bond. Recalls are probably the most important thing that you can teach a dog. Are all of my recalls 100% fail-safe, in all situations? probably not, but with each of my dogs, I work on building the rapport of a fast and happy recall, one-on-one. A recall can save your dog's life!
Fetching sheep, is literally a retrieve and recall with critters. Of course, no teeth invited to try to speed up or try to pick up anything. Making things move, is what herding and many other breeds of dogs love to do. Some dogs like to make things stop moving, or some like to grab and kill things that move. All of these instincts, once you figure out their brain-are easily incorporated into teaching not only your recall, but a motivational retrieve.
Movement is More to most dogs-your motion, a toy's motion , +Tug, things that move, food being tossed in opposite direction for the 2 Cookie game and calling them as you take off , to create chase. All of this is More to most dogs. These are simple things to use, we all have them, no secret training method.
BUT...where to start? At the end of course. I backchain my recalls and retrieve, beginning at the end. For your more formal obedience fronts, different thing. But, with a handful of hidden treats, held behind your back (not visible or you quickly become that sucky trainer who has to lure or say "cookie" to get your dog's focus) I start in a quiet environment and just Yes/Click/Praise & Treat a pup for choosing to select me over the environment we are working in. 5-10 rewards of that, just milling about. There is no cue or "come here" or their name-we want them to use their brains to select us...it is SO MUCH MORE that way.
After I know they are acknowledging me and have done a few shaping sessions of this in at least 5 different low level environments-I up criteria a bit. I will still click/yes & treat checking in, but also on a few, start to click for not just a flick of "hey I know you are there" for a pup seeking out my eyes. That is when you have their brains, when you have that connection and eye contact. And...this is where I am with one pup, while the younger two zoom past him in focus.
How do you quantify biddability in a dog? For me it is when more is more and they are happy to do more...an open book! Asking for more, instead of a fight to get more eye contact, filter out environment, etc.
So, we start and keep working on more pennies in the bank. Tonight, in the dark under floodlight...just worked on I can be more, for this pup. He is sweet as all get out, but easily goes into a fugue state where movement is more, or the other dogs. More work to do! He does love toys, so with him will use that & retrieve games, to be more for him. More concrete skills also seem to make more sense to him, so dog is in the details. In the spring, hopefully we will be ready for more stock work, and have more time for it. Work is a necessary evil! ;)
